I have a lot of great memories from over 35 years of bowhunting, but few compare to taking my first deer with a traditional bow. No, it wasn’t a big buck. In fact, it wasn’t a buck at all. That didn’t matter to me, though. It was the culmination of two year’s worth of research and practice to do something that had been on my to-do list for a long time!
If giving traditional archery a try is on your to-do list, this article is for you. One quick disclaimer, though: I do not claim to be an expert on the subject. I’m just an avid bowhunter who made the decision a few years ago to purchase my first recurve bow with the hopes of taking a deer with traditional archery gear. And like anything new I take on, I did A LOT of research.
I was ultimately successful, but getting started was a little more complicated than I expected. So, my hope is this article will provide you with the foundation needed to get started and on your way to taking your first deer with traditional archery gear by answering some of the same questions I had along the way.
The Appeal
My choice to give traditional archery a try over 30 years into my bowhunting journey was driven by a desire to simplify my hunting. I liked the idea of just carrying a lightweight bow, some arrows, and little else. No high-tech gadgetry, adjustable sights, mechanical releases, or rangefinder. I guess it was an age thing, where I found myself gravitating toward a simpler way of life, including how I deer hunt. Not to mention, shooting a traditional bow is just fun!
Once I started packing my recurve to the woods, I was quickly hooked when that first doe come into the white oak I was hunting just 15 yards away. I got just as excited — and nervous — as I did just a few weeks prior when I shot one of my best bucks with my compound bow. Somehow I managed to hold it together long enough to make a decent shot on the doe, and she barely made it out of sight before tipping over. It was at that point I felt like I’d officially become a traditional bowhunter.
Limitations
Before you make the dive into traditional archery, you need to have a firm grasp on the limitations you’ll be imposing on yourself, especially if you’re used to shooting a modern compound bow.
Traditional bows produce much less energy than their modern counterparts, and that reduced energy results in much slower arrow speeds. Those slower speeds, combined with the lack of any sights on the bow, can significantly limit your effective range. For me, that means keeping my shots with a recurve under 20 yards compared to around 40 with my compound. Ideally, I want the deer within 15 yards if at all possible.
One other thing to keep in mind with traditional archery is that you are typically dealing with a bow much longer than modern compound bows — possibly twice as long as what you’re currently shooting. That can make it challenging shooting from some climbing stands and ground blinds.
I learned the hard way the first time I packed my 62-inch recurve bow to the woods with me. I got situated in my Summit climber, and when I tried to take some practice draws, I quickly realized I couldn’t draw back without the string hitting the rail on the climber’s seat. I ended up having to turn the seat portion of the stand away from me. I had to stand on my feet the whole time.
Ironically, I shot my first deer with a recurve later in that same hunt. If I hadn’t taken those practice draws, the story may have had a more dramatic ending.
Equipment
Again, the great part about traditional archery is that there is limited equipment needed to get started. But you want to make sure you get the right equipment that is fitted to your specifications and ability. Otherwise, your introduction into this style of archery will likely end in frustration.
The Bow
There are a ton of options when it comes to traditional bows, and it can quickly feel overwhelming. My advice: start with something affordable to make sure you truly enjoy it before investing in a high-end recurve or longbow. There are some decent bows under $200 that are more than capable of taking a whitetail.
While it’s tempting to buy online, I highly recommend visiting a local bow shop if you can. Getting bows in-hand helps you feel the differences in draw and weight, and a good archery shop can walk you through the process, offer advice, and be there if you need help later.
The big choice starting out is whether you want a recurve or a longbow. I personally chose a takedown recurve, which allowed me to swap out limbs and move up in draw weight as I built strength. Recurves tend to shoot a little faster and are typically more compact, making them easier to maneuver in hunting situations. But if a longbow is what calls to you, don’t hesitate — both styles are effective and fun to shoot.
The most important thing is picking a draw weight you can handle. Traditional bows have no let-off like compounds, so if you’re used to pulling 70 pounds on a compound, don’t expect to match that. I started with 40-pound limbs even though my Mathews compound is set at 65 pounds, and even that felt like a lot initially. Over time, I’ve been able to upgrade to 50-pound limbs, but I’m definitely glad I didn’t try to start there.
Remember, advertised draw weights are based on a 28-inch draw. If your draw is longer, like mine, you’ll be pulling more weight than listed — something important to factor in when picking your first bow.
Arrows
Choosing the right arrows is just as important as choosing the right bow, and it starts with understanding spine — how much the arrow flexes when shot. A higher spine number means a weaker arrow, so a 600 spine is more flexible than a 400 spine. And which spine arrows you ultimately need depends on your bow’s draw weight, your draw length, as well as the weight of your broadheads (or field points).
For most new traditional archers shooting between 35 to 45 pounds of draw weight, a 500 spine arrow is a safe starting point. If you’re shooting 45 pounds or more, you may need to move up to a 400 spine. Again, there are other variables at play, and this is where buying from an archery shop can also help to ensure you get the proper spined arrows for your setup.
When it comes to arrow materials, you have the options of wood, carbon and aluminum. Wood arrows offer that classic look and feel but can be less durable and require more maintenance. Aluminum flies consistently but can bend easily, while carbon arrows are the most forgiving — extremely tough, easy to tune, and widely available.
I ultimately chose carbon for those reasons. When you’re new to traditional archery, you’re probably going to miss the target a time or two as you learn to shoot. I know I did (and still do)! So, the carbon arrows tend to stand up to those misses better than wood or aluminum. If you want the benefits of carbon but with a more traditional appearance, there are several manufacturers that make carbon arrows with a wood-grain finish on them.
Accessories
While traditional archery doesn’t require as much gadgetry as shooting a modern compound, there are still a few accessories you’ll need to get started.
First, you’ll want either a glove or a leather pull-tab to draw the bow string back on your traditional bow. This will save you some sore fingers and possibly a few blisters along the way. I went with the glove, because once I put it on, then there is no worry of dropping it or misplacing it when a shot opportunity presents itself. However, it’s really a matter of personal preference. Either will get the job done effectively.
You’ll also need a rest for your bow, or you can do like I did, and just put an adhesive fur pad on the shelf of the riser and shoot the arrow directly off that. Again, this is a personal preference, and I went with the shelf pad to keep things simple. That’s one less point of failure by not having a rest installed. Keep in mind if you do shoot off the shelf of the riser, you will definitely want feather vanes on your arrows. Traditional plastic vanes would hit the riser of the bow and cause the tail end of the arrow to kick out, which could cause erratic arrow flight.
Of course, you will need a quiver to keep your arrows safe while you’re walking around with the bow, the same as if you were hunting with a compound. You can get a traditional bow-mounted quiver, or if you really want to be old school, you can get one that goes over your shoulder. I opted for the traditional bow-mounted version.
And one final accessory I highly recommend is some form of string silencers. I went with the popular “beaver balls” that I repeatedly saw recommended during my initial research, but there are lots of options out there. Anything that helps deaden the sound of the bow when shot will be sufficient.
Shooting Style
One you have your bow, arrows, and any accessories you’ll need, it’s time to start practicing! If you’re not using a sight, then you’ll need to figure out how you’re going to aim at your target. There are a couple of popular options, and I’m not here to push you towards one over another. I recommend trying a few different styles and figuring out what works best for you.
One of the most popular ways of shooting a traditional bow is instinctive – meaning, you’re not really aiming at all. At least not in the traditional sense. Think of it like throwing a baseball. When you throw someone a baseball, you don’t stop and take time to aim the ball. Years of practice has taught you how hard and at what trajectory you need to throw the ball to get it where you want it to go without having to really think about it.
Over time, you can develop a similar feel for shooting a traditional bow — just knowing where to aim by feel and sending the arrow to the desired point of impact. In my mind, that’s the ultimate way of shooting a traditional bow, but just like learning to throw a ball accurately, its going to take a lot of practice to become a good, consistent instinctive shooter.
If you’re hoping to start hitting the bullseye a little sooner than later, you can try gap shooting. This involves using the tip of the arrow as a reference point. Instead of aiming directly at the target, you place the arrow tip a certain distance below it — a “gap” that changes with range. The closer the shot, the larger the gap; the farther the shot, the smaller the gap. This method requires knowing your bow and arrow setup well and being able to judge yardage with some consistency. It offers a high level of accuracy once you’ve figured out your gaps for various distances.
I started with gap shooting but have evolved to more of an instinctive/gap shooting hybrid that is often referred to as split vision shooting. It simply means that I focus my vision on the target, like an instinctive shooter would, but I’m still passively aware of where the tip of my arrow is in relation to the target. It’s a natural progression from gap shooting to split vision as you develop a feel for where to aim your bow without having to intensely focus on the tip of your arrow. In time – and with lots of practice – I hope to eventually be able to ignore the arrow altogether and just focus on my target. Then, I will truly be shooting instinctively.
Final Thoughts
I know I’ve thrown a lot at you in this article, and I’ve only scratched the surface of traditional archery. But my hope is that this information will provide you with the basic knowledge you need to get started.
Once you get your equipment and start shooting, you’ll then be able to fine tune your gear and shooting style, as I have. It’s a learning process that will likely continue until the day you hang the bow up for good, but I believe it’s a process worth pursuing.
I’ve gotten a lot of enjoyment out of my short time shooting traditional archery, and each season, I find myself reaching past my compound bow to grab the recurve a little more.